Pattern Development
Surface Pattern Design
I like designing patterns for knitwear as designs are based on a grid system which appeals to the mathematical part of my mind!
Domestic knitting machines can knit two colours per row (it is possible to do more than 2 colours but then it all gets a bit technical) so when designing on a grid the solid and clear squares represent the two colours. It can sometimes be a challenge to make a grid of squares form curves but this is the sort of challenge I enjoy!
I like to keep a little sketch book with me to jot down ideas and stick in pictures for colour reference and inspiration. After completing visual research, I will come up with a drawing to be translated onto a knitting grid - I’m pretty old school in my methods and at this stage like to use tracing paper and pens to work out the knitting design. Once I have it on paper it’s then plotted onto a computer screen and saved in a format that can then be loaded onto my knitting machine. Then I’m ready to go - knitting a new design for the first time is still exciting for me!
Pattern Cutting
As I have trained in fashion design, pattern cutting is something I have learnt to do over the years, it helps if you find it easy to think 3 dimensionally - another thing I quite enjoy!
When I start designing an Animal or Doll I firstly reference real animals to capture their shape and proportions. I will then hand draw a basic body shape, working out what panels need to be added for a 3 dimensional feel - or I will decide if 2 dimensions would suit better. The process of adding panels and where to put limbs, ears etc can be quite technical. Measuring is key! The panels must fit together and then seam allowance is added.
Once I have the pattern I make up a prototype in calico to see how it fits together and looks - it usually takes 2 or 3 goes of making a prototype to get something I am happy with.
Finally I need to transfer the surface design onto the pattern pieces - I do this by drawing the design onto each pattern piece and then translating it onto a knitting grid using my trusty tracing paper and pens. Luckily, once the panels are knitted and washed the scale of the surface pattern is the same as the draw design so fits will approximately the pattern pieces. As all my knitted lambswool panels are washed and felted, I can cut the pattern pieces out of this knitted fabric without any edges unraveling. Once cut out it’s time to sew up the real thing - always a thrill to see the first one! Then the challenge is to make more that are similar, however no two animals or dolls will be exactly the same depending on the wash of the knitted panels and hand stitched faces - each one will be a unique hand made creation!
